When husband and wife Daniel Kelch and Laura Van Dorf launched LULU’S DIM SUM & THEN SOME in 1992 they were ahead of their time, serving an Americanized version of Asian cuisine–bigger flavors, bigger portions–that’s since become ubiquitous. A decade later they’re picking up steam rather than losing it, as evidenced by their move a few months ago to a larger space. Just down Davis Street from its old location, the new Lulu’s is twice the size, located in a street-level storefront in one of Evanston’s newly constructed condo buildings. Besides square footage, the restaurant has also gained a full liquor license (as opposed to one restricted to beer and wine); along with house martinis and several specialty cocktails, fresh-fruit smoothies have been added to the menu. Kelch’s cuisine is still offered in both small plates (spring rolls, cold spicy sesame noodles, pot stickers, shrimp dumplings) and large ones (teriyaki steak salad, almond duck tenders). Multiple vegetarian options include stir-fried udon noodles, bi bim bop, and a crispy tofu salad with ginger dressing. You’ll also see more seafood and fish specials (something Kelch has been wanting to move into), presented more elaborately than the regular menu items. Prices have gone up modestly but are still a bargain, with regular entrees topping out at $8.25 and specials at $12.95. Lulu’s still doesn’t take reservations, and it still has lines running out the door. It’s at 804 Davis, Evanston, 847-869-4343.
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
At stylish hotel dining room CALITERRA, the toque has been passed from John Coletta to Rick Gresh, formerly of Green Dolphin Street, who’s doing his own interpretation of Cal-Ital cuisine. Where Coletta simply showcased his exquisite talent with seasonal ingredients in updated Italian dishes (which he continues to do for the Carlucci group in Rosemont), Gresh is mixing things up more, globalizing the menu with fussier combinations. Some work, others miss the mark. His fresh wild arugula and shaved fennel salad with a featherlight goat cheese fondue was a winner, while his espresso-crusted diver scallops with a white chocolate emulsion had muddied, combative flavors. An ahi tuna amuse came topped with coconut cream, avocado, and a Kumamoto oyster, another culinary stretch. Entrees were more successful, though each had one ingredient too many: a dry-rubbed venison loin came with a savory winter caponata and a fig-infused balsamic vinaigrette; ricotta cheese tortellini were served in a root vegetable puree with foie gras. Gresh’s menu will change seasonally, so he may grow into his style. Caliterra is at 633 N. Saint Clair, 312-274-4444.
