Once upon a time (as all good stories must begin), a six-by-six-foot crate from Colombia, weighing in at 1,100 pounds, arrived at Chicago customs. Following protocol, several officials and a police dog examined the package to make sure the contents were legal. Instead of contraband, they discovered a metallic box with a long metal rod running lengthwise through the middle. The recipient, Luis Montoya, called down to Canal Street to claim his package, explained to the officials that they had unpacked a rotisserie handcrafted in his homeland. The machine, he told them, was integral to creating the dishes he planned to serve at his north-side restaurant.
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What customs didn’t know was that Montoya had brought over something else from his hometown of Cali–his grandmother’s secret recipe for roasted chicken. This recipe has been the foundation for three family-owned restaurants in Colombia, and now two in Chicago: the Flying Chicken, on Lincoln near Irving Park, and Rotisseries Restaurant, at 3300 W. Fullerton.
The neon lettering on the Flying Chicken’s front window might suggest that only takeout is available, but there are tables and chairs inside, plus Latin music or television to entertain you while you eat. It’s probably almost like having dinner in the Montoya household.
Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photo/Jim Newberry.
