“I spend my weekends pretending to run this place,” says Ahmed Fazil, a sleep-deprived native of seedy east London who last March opened a branch of his cousin’s UK fast-food chain, the Original Kababish of London, near Devon and Western. His other job–he’s part owner of the CTO Group, a consulting firm that helps companies cut costs–keeps him on international flights most of the week, shuttling between cities to analyze the architecture, infrastructure, and computer systems of his clients’ facilities.
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Though Fazil claims Original Kababish is the biggest “Desi” (Indian-Pakistani) franchise in London, with “something close to 20” locations, the Chicago outpost is in a stark storefront with a tiny kitchen, its only frills a snazzy sign out front and framed British coats of arms on the walls. This is a “test-of-concept” restaurant, says Fazil, and the concept’s not atmosphere but food: Desi dishes done British style.
“When we first opened, we were accused of having small portions,” says Fazil, whose prices are average for the neighborhood. “People say, ‘Oh, we’re willing to pay for quality and quantity,’ but this simply isn’t true.” He claims some joints stretch ground meat with flour. “I know how you fill somebody up–just toss on the carbohydrates,” he says. “It’s rubbish.” Other owners have told him one portion of biryani should serve two people. “I said, ‘That’s two portions then!’” But small portions or not, he says many restaurateurs eat at his place; one late night the co-owners of the Pakistani spot next door stopped in at different times.
The Original Kababish of London is at 2437 W. Devon, 773-973-0225.
