OTRO MAS, 3651 N. Southport, 773-348-3200: Owner Hubie Greenwald and chef-owner John Manion gave their second restaurant the same design and lively ambience as the Wicker Park Mas, with faux-finished walls and ceilings and funky Latin music that’s loud but not too loud for easy conversation. Marbled cream-colored leather banquettes provide comfortable seating, though tables are so closely positioned that privacy isn’t really an option. Starters include a complimentary cumin-heavy bean dip served with bread; a daily seviche; gazpacho with crabmeat; and a thick arepa (corn cake) with fried shrimp, beberete salsa (made mostly of tomatoes), and buerre blanc. The dry-aged New York strip is charred on the outside and nicely medium rare on the inside, accompanied by chipotle butter, potatoes mashed with Cabrales (a Spanish blue cheese), and “tobacco” onions–onion rings coated in a tasty combination of chilies and spices. An elegant seared duck breast comes fanned out around a mound of pear salsa next to a flaky empanada filled with tender duck-leg confit and drizzled with a rum reduction. There’s a selection of high-end tequilas and Brazilian cocktails and a limited but thoughtful wine list with an emphasis on Spanish varietals.
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Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photo/Bruce Powell.
