JP Chicago
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Marc Bortz and Jason Paskewitz have just opened JP CHICAGO, a cozy bistro next door to their first joint venture, Sangria Restaurant and Tapas Bar. The space, once a motorcycle repair shop, has a huge, weathered Citroen sign over the bar, red leather banquettes, sandblasted ceilings, old New York subway tiles lining the walls, and a pleasant worn-in feeling. Paskewitz’s seasonal menu focuses on French-inspired American comfort food: His duck starter, for instance, is a leg and confit glazed in house-made orange marmalade, served with a refreshing mache. His creamy parsnip-and-sweet-corn soup has a hint of black truffle and is topped with a dollop of creme fraiche. There are four steak frites options: New York strip, hanger steak, filet mignon, and flat-iron. (Get the bearnaise sauce on the side unless you like your fries soggy.) The slow-roasted chicken disappointed the friend I dined with–the skin wasn’t crispy and the enormous serving of mashed potatoes and fall vegetables in jus on the side, while flavorful, was messy and soupy and overwhelmed the moist chicken. The wine list is impressively global–there’s everything from a Rhone Valley Syrah to an Italian merlot to a Chilean pinot noir–with more than a dozen by-the-glass choices. The mostly young crowd gives the place a lively energy, but the room’s hard surfaces make it a little too loud for quiet conversation. –Laura Levy Shatkin
Kizoku Sushi & Sake Lounge, 358 W. Ontario, 312-335-9888. Contemporary Japanese spot in River North managed by Sam Robertson, with executive chef Kee Chan, both from Heat.
Usagi Ya, 1178 N. Milwaukee, 773-292-5885. East Ukrainian Village pan-Asian with two tearooms and a sushi bar.
