When Tim and Deeana Bruce opened Calliope Cafe in January, they were wagering that sandwiches could fill a niche in an economy where lots of fine-dining establishments were taking hits. “It seems pretty silly, but sandwiches are something different,” says Tim. They painted the walls a giddy orange with chartreuse and yellow trim and made up a menu of upscale melts, clubs, and wraps.
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
“The sandwich had its heyday in the 50s, but it goes back to Europe, where workers tucked a pastry in their back pockets for lunch,” says Tim, who has a degree from the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago. “Delicatessens are great, but the bread is cold, and the cheese is mostly cold. Americans like hot sandwiches.” He toasts his breads, grills the tortillas for his wraps, and offers four kinds of grinders. He’s also raised the bar when it comes to condiments. The fresh-grilled salmon club on toasted sourdough and the pit ham and Brie on hot challah are both laced with mustard dill aioli. The turkey avocado club is topped with chipotle mayo.
With a menu of 15 sandwiches, a delivery service, and a lean staff of “five or six,” Tim says, “it’s not totally about the food. A beautiful dish may take 5 hands to make and 15 minutes, but you have 7 minutes to get it done. Not everyone can be Charlie Trotter.” As new business owners, the Bruces are committed to a life that includes having the grease trap emptied at $100 a pop, plus garbage disposal, alarm systems, and payroll and litter taxes.
“It’s a lot of fun to decide on everything for yourself. The specials are our idea. The walls are our idea. I think we do great things together,” says Deeana.
