To make a true tequila you first need to tramp out into the agave fields of Mexico and whack a ten-year-old plant with a long sharp stick.
Back in the distilleries, they watched the fermentation process. The heavy pineapple-shaped agave hearts (or pi–as) are first steamed for 24 to 36 hours, a process that softens them up and heightens the sweetness of the albuminous juice inside. Then they’re shredded and ground to a pulp. The juice is extracted and mixed with yeast to trigger a strong and rapid two-and-a-half-day fermentation. This brew is then distilled twice to remove impurities. A clear tequila blanco results.
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Guzman’s job is to circulate in the dining room, answering questions and offering advice on matching tequila varieties to food. Right now, however, he’s cooling his heels. Though Adobo opened as scheduled on the sixth, they opened without a liquor license. Despite the two licenses LoDuca already holds for Vinci and Trattoria Parma, the city required a criminal background check–as they do for any license applicant. But the officer assigned to the task retired several months ago, and LoDuca’s petition fell through the cracks. The day after opening he received notice from the Department of Revenue that his application had been extended for 30 days, pending receipt of the missing police department documents. But while it could take up to a month for them to finally open the bar, LoDuca says he’s received assurances that the situation will be resolved any day now.
