It’s always a nice surprise to find an appealing neighborhood bar and a menu that’s a cut above average, especially when they’re in the same place. Brothers Alexander and Nikola Samardzija have taken over the corner tavern operated by their Serbian grandmother for the past 27 years and turned it into XIPPO, a slick hideout where the upholstery is crushed red velvet, the music (acid jazz, hip-hop, house) is DJ-mixed, and the staff has a great personality. Their longtime friend Adrian Solis (Union League Club) heads up the kitchen, and his flair and attention to detail show even in seemingly run-of-the-mill dishes like quesadillas and chicken wings; the latter come either buffalo style or spicy Asian style, with sesame seeds, scallions, and ginger. There are a few sandwiches–grilled chicken, steak, and a burger–but it’s the entrees that shouldn’t be missed. A grilled duck breast and leg was perfectly cooked then charred on the outside, set in a delicately balanced red wine sauce with dried cherries, and served with veggies and a wedge of potato au gratin. Grilled salmon topped with a rich lemon basil butter came over a bed of couscous (mistakenly listed as Israeli couscous). There’s also a pretzel-crusted pork chop with red onion confit and a Guinness stout mustard sauce, plus several steaks. The place feels more like a well-oiled machine than a newly opened bar run by incredibly young and minimally experienced owners–their grandma should be proud. Xippo is at 3759 N. Damen, 773-529-9135.
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It’s hard to imagine a more cheerful, inviting room than the one at Lincoln Park’s CALLIOPE CAFE, where the walls are painted eye-opening shades of coral and chartreuse, trimmed in lemon yellow, and hung with colorfully framed Brian Andreas story prints. Chef-owner Tim Bruce (former corporate chef for Goose Island Brewery) and his wife and partner, Deeana, show their style in both the decor and the food. Jewel-toned tables and chairs are purposely mismatched–some adorned with clouds and dog prints, others solid–and colorful pillows line the long bench that runs along one wall. A chalkboard behind the counter displays the frequently changing menu of soups, salads, and sandwiches, which are as vibrant as the decor. A grilled salmon club has an element of smoke from slices of hickory bacon along with an herbaceous tone from the mustard dill aioli, and the chicken sandwich that was a special one day used dandelion greens for crunch and a citrus-thyme aioli for punch. All sandwiches come with waffle fries. Homemade soups might include pinto bean with ham or dill-scented cauliflower with carrots. Generously portioned salads, served in lined baskets, range from a Chinese chicken salad with a soy-ginger vinaigrette to a spinach salad with mandarin oranges, walnuts, and mushrooms. Sandwiches and salads are all made to order using noticeably fresh ingredients, and the desserts–tangy key lime pie, gooey fudge brownies, and peanut butter cookies–are also worth a try. Calliope Cafe is at 2826 N. Lincoln, 773-528-8055.
