As rents rise in Ravenswood and Lincoln Square, a few Albany Park entrepreneurs are hoping the gentrification will spread their way. Cousins Arben Pema and Leke Brisku have opened their bar and restaurant, BRISKU’S BISTRO, a block south of Arun’s on Kedzie. The two rooms are enormous: one’s got just a long bar, a jukebox, and some dartboards; the other is full of tables and has a stage for live music. Pema and Brisku are first-time owners, and they’ve installed a former Cousin’s cook to create a Middle Eastern menu that’s not your typical bar fare. There are over a dozen appetizers, ranging from hummus, carrot puree, and tzatziki–all great for dipping into with the warm pita that’s served–to Balkan qevapa, seasoned sausages, and Mediterranean qofte, a beef or chicken meatball stuffed with feta. There are also a few mainstream offerings, like grilled chicken tenders and fried calamari. The shepherd salad is a wonderful choice, with roughly chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, and onions tossed with parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice. A dozen entrees, most under $12, are served in ample portions with several accompaniments: the lamb shank, although slightly tough, came in a tasty tomato sauce with a mound of rice and a side of vegetables, while a generous, gently cooked portion of Adriatic salmon arrived on a bed of spinach sauteed with garlic. A New Orleans-style jazz band plays every Wednesday, and satellite-football Sundays start soon. Brisku’s Bistro is at 4100 N. Kedzie, 773-279-9141.
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The counter-service-only FAT WILLY’S RIB SHACK, located across from the General Cinema on Western, is tiny, holding just a few booths covered in faux cowhide. Luckily, there are lots of seats on the sidewalk patio. The goodies–baby back ribs, rib tips, chicken, and a variety of sandwiches (brisket, pulled pork, burgers)–come from either the small grill behind the counter or the large smoker in back, where the tender barbecue simmers for hours after marinating overnight. Servings are piled high on the plate, and accompaniments including thick-cut steak fries, creamy coleslaw, and baked beans help balance the thick and somewhat sweet sauce. For those who don’t eat BBQ there’s also homemade chili topped with cheddar cheese, sour cream, and smoked jalapeno salsa; fresh soups of the day; mac ‘n’ cheese made with penne, Gruyere, fontina, Parmesan, and cheddar; and a tossed green salad freshened with diced apples, maple pecans, red onions, blue cheese, and a balsamic-honey dressing. Desserts might include a fresh fruit pie of the day, New Orleans chocolate pecan pie, or massive chocolate chip cookies. It’s a simple menu, but everything’s made from scratch and affordable–even a whole slab of ribs is under $15. Fat Willy’s Rib Shack is at 2416 W. Schubert, 773-782-1800.
