Stretching the northern bounds of Andersonville is M. HENRY, a quaint American cafe from partners Michael H. Moorman–formerly co-owner of the fast-food Loop eatery Heartwise Express–and Jorge Aviles. Just a block south of the Clark-Ashland intersection, the former Latina bridal shop has been dressed up with red linoleum floors, rows of white pendant lamps, antique doors and windows suspended from the ceiling, and a few simple, modern works of art on the brick walls. It’s open for breakfast and lunch only, every day but Monday. Sandwiches and salads are nice and light; there’s a turkey burger, a miso-glazed veggie burger, a Caribbean jerk chicken sandwich, a “drunken” chicken sandwich in a chardonnay glaze, and three more, all served with a side of sesame red cabbage slaw or root vegetable chips. Three salads include one layered with Chinese cucumber, watercress, and sesame-crusted chicken in a ginger dressing. Breakfast entries are more interesting: a dish called Vegan Epiphany is organic tofu scrambled with red and green peppers, onions, and yuba (a baconlike soy product), while Dulce Banana Rhumba is thick-cut brioche French toast with warm bananas, rum, golden raisins, and pecans. Pancakes come with either pomegranate or maple syrup–or layered with blackberry compote and vanilla mascarpone and topped with a brown-sugar-and-oat crust. There’s a small juice bar toward the back of the room. Prices are reasonable and the staff eager to accommodate. M. Henry is at 5707 N. Clark, 773-561-1600.
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The former Antojitos Guatemaltecos has quietly transformed into Mexican eatery LA CONDESITA DE ACAPULCO. Gone are the Central American artifacts, but otherwise the room looks similar–clear plastic tops the tables and a jukebox plays Latin music, which sometimes drowns out the television. The guacamole is tops, but the draw here is the delectable, ultrafresh corn tortillas. The same masa dough goes into several other recommended items: gorditas (thick tortillas stuffed with a choice of braised chicken, spiced pork, steak, or beans), huaraches (long, narrow masa boats filled with the same options), and sopes (rounds of dough with ingredients piled on top). Though these aren’t considered entrees, they can easily make a meal. The menu is in the process of changing, so some items (like the ones above) are listed only on a sandwich board up front. An extensive selection of chicken, beef, pork, and fish dishes is also offered. La Condesita de Acapulco is at 4641 N. Clark, 773-989-4903.
