Gandhi India Restaurant, 2601 W. Devon, 773-761-8714.
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Besserat de Bellefon Cuvee des Moines Brut Rose (Champagne, France), $34.99. This is a cremant-style wine, subject to half the pressure used in traditional champagne fermentation and a lower dose of sugar, which gives it only moderate effervescence. The low sugar also lets more of the crisp green apple and citrus flavors come through (with hints of strawberries and Bing cherries on the nose), while a higher-than-normal proportion of pinot noir gives it the blush color and a fuller-bodied flavor. The refreshing, acidic finish makes it a fine match for the lemon juice, musty cayenne pepper, green cilantro, fresh tomatoes, and starchy potatoes in the alu chat, a spicy cold potato salad. The wine mellows the dish’s powerful flavors, while the dish brings out the wine’s more subtle midpalate flavors, toning down the moderately pungent citrus. The salty tandoori chicken, given a squeeze of the lime that accompanies it, works well with this wine, too: the citrus notes in the wine match those in the food (and also work as a palate cleanser). (Binny’s)
1999 Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese (Germany), $12.99. The cool evenings and steep, south-facing slopes along the Mosel River yield good acidity in the wines of this region, the smallest in the valley, while the lower alcohol levels typical of Rieslings make them food friendly. The spices and fresh cilantro in the alu chat become more vibrant in this wine’s company, while the heat of the cayenne is mitigated. The sweetness and acidity of the wine smooth out the tart vinegar and lemon juice flavors. The shrimp biryani, perfumed with cardamom and cloves, works with the wine in a different manner, keeping its citrusy flavors lively without mellowing the fruitiness. The naturally sweet shrimp itself is compatible with the moderate sweetness of the wine. (Sam’s)
$3.95
Lamb Vindaloo 5
$7.45
