Matching wine to cuisines it isn’t usually drunk with–Caribbean, Latin American, Asian–is the focus of this periodic feature, in which we pick a BYO restaurant, sample a few dishes, and recommend some bottles.
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There’s a long line of Middle Eastern eateries on Kedzie north of Montrose, but this Persian one, run by the Naghavi family, is a standout. Kabobs of marinated chicken, filet mignon, and spiced ground beef come on fluffy mounds of saffron-flecked basmati rice alongside wonderfully charred onions, tomatoes, and green peppers. There are also standbys like hummus and baba ghannouge. Portions are generous, ingredients are high quality, and the hospitality is genuine. The vibrant flavors of this cuisine work with several grape varieties, most of which are highly acidic whites or medium-bodied reds. On this trip the consulting expert was Thomas Belelieu, general manager of the Whitehall Hotel and Molive restaurant and former head of the wine program for the Disney Corporation.
2001 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley, Chile), $7.50-$8.50. The cool coastal climate gives this wine a crisp fruit character and zesty acidity. Aromas of green apple and grapefruit are followed by flavors of citrus and melon, which balance nicely with the fresh lemon juice and sweet onions in the Persian salad and the acidity of the yogurt-based kash-ke bademjan (eggplant, mint, and onion spread). (Sam’s, Jewel)
2000 Estancia Pinnacles Pinot Noir (Monterey, CA), $12-$14. The sparkling fruitiness of this young California red balances the dustiness of the saffron rice. The high tannins cut through the fat in the salmon, enhancing its earthy flavor and downplaying its oiliness. Flavors of cherry, black raspberry, and cassis are layered with a hint of oak and spice from two years of aging in oak barrels, giving it a velvety finish. (DiCarlo’s Armanetti, Dominick’s, Binny’s)
Jewel 1210 N. Clark, 312-944-6950
Fine Persian Food
Joujeh Kabob(3)…$9.95
